Flying from North American continent to Europe on Icelandair the airplane would touch down in Iceland. A no-charge option on Icelandair, you can layover in Iceland for up to one week. The layover, or stopover option from Icelandair has been around since the 1960’s but the desire to explore Iceland has not always been there. Arguably, the initiatives of government in prioritizing tourism and the influence of social media and YouTube are having a huge impact. With my family, I only had 48 hours to grab a quick experience of the country.
We left Toronto late evening to Keflavik International Airport in Iceland. Keflavik is the main hub for Icelandair. The flight was overnight landing in Iceland at 08:30 am, but my body clock would be at 04:30 am. From the airport, we found our shuttle to get to the car rental office that was just off the airport site. I was unaware that it was off-site when I initially booked the car. That oversight was my fault for not checking. The off-site rental can generally elicit a groan from most travellers. However, in this situation, it became a happy bonus. The car rental desks in the airport arrivals area had very long wait times for travellers to pick up their reservations. Congested with luggage and travellers, the terminal was a cacophony of people and noise. Long lines of people snaked around the main floor of the airport arrivals waiting to get to the rental desk. Young children caught in the delay deprived of a good sleep, were dropping to the floor crying in tired resignation. Nobody wants to start their vacation in a line-up. In contrast, our shuttle pulled up to the door. We shared the shuttle with another couple to take us the 5-minute drive to the car rental office. We had one customer was in front of us then we were on our way. I was happy not to lose time in the line at the airport.
The airport is 49km, approximately 50-minute drive from the capital Reykjavik. Our family agenda for the day was to embark on a walking food tour around Reykjavik. Check into the hotel late afternoon and then head off for an early evening hot spring spa and a good night’s sleep. So first, the walking food tour.
Our meetup point for the guide for the tour was at the Harpa Concert Hall which is very conspicuous building with its honeycomb glass façade. The food tour itinerary consisted of visiting 5 restaurants all within approximately 5 minutes walk from one another in downtown Reykjavik. We were served a dish to showcase the restaurants cuisine themed on the traditional foods of Iceland. As the tour was clearly well organized with the restaurants that we visited, the food was quick to emerge and the service was terrific. The staff were leaving the anecdotes and explanations to our tour guide host.
The group size was 12 people but for half of the tour we just had 9. As it turns out, other guests joined late as they had been delayed getting a rental car at the airport. Our group relaxed into the day at the first stop. Conversation at the table was not just the food, but also Icelandic life style. Culture is the backbone of travel so having access to conversation with a local over a plate of fine food is treasured. Always interesting to learn about daily life, recreation, schooling, and traditions. With Europeans, Americans, Japanese, Canadians, and our Icelandic host all at the same table, it was truly stimulating conversation. A good tour guide can certainly make the difference. Our guide, Ari, is an actor and voice actor who is native Icelandic but had studied in London, England. It was wonderful to hear his pronunciation both in Icelandic and English.
The short walks between the restaurants were just long enough to get the blood flowing and food digested. Our food dishes were primarily fish with some lamb and goat. If you are sensitive to food allergies then you might want to communicate with them prior to booking a similar trip.
A sidebar, it appears that vegetarian and vegan cuisine is comparatively a new idea for Reykjavik restaurants. From what we had observed, vegetarian and vegan menu options were very limited with very premium prices. There are few vegetarian restaurants in the town to check out. However, an appetizer soup, salad main and a coffee do not expect to get any change from $70. If it is an important choice for you, I would suggest research and making reservations beforehand.
The tour company we chose rotated through 16 participating restaurants in the town, so it was possible to take the tour more than once. The scheduled time was for 3 hours, but there was nobody looking at their watch. For my family and I, we definitely felt that it was time well spent.
We checked into the hotel and our next experience was to get to the hot spring spa that evening. Being the land of fire and ice, the hot springs and lagoons are an integral part of Icelandic life year-round. The hot springs range from the rustic, sparse, scenic to the luxurious. The hot springs of Iceland are particularly mineral-rich, which should work wonders for your skin. We had made a reservation at Sky Lagoon for two reasons. Firstly, it was a short 15-minute drive from our hotel in downtown Reykjavik, and secondly, it falls into the luxurious. The hot water and lava rock surroundings are all-natural. The lagoon’s infinity edge with the Atlantic Ocean as the dramatic backdrop to the experience. Recommend that you check out the Skjól bathing ritual. There are over 45 natural hot springs and over 200 geothermal warmed swimming pools to choose between. If this is your holiday then you will not be disappointed.
Next morning our breakfast was at the hotel was amazing. It was time to hit the road today, to drive the ‘Golden Circle’ route. There is a lot of information about the route and maps to help, so it was not difficult to do. The route takes in Thingvellir National Park, Geysir Hot Springs, and Gullfoss Waterfall. In a country with lots of waterfalls, hot springs, and geothermal activity, the Golden Circle route offers a sampling of what Iceland has to offer. As there are many tour buses that make this trip daily, we made the decision to drive the route anti-clockwise instead of the traditional clockwise to avoid the bus tours. The strategy worked for us, as we only encountered the tour buses at the midpoint of the journey.
In the morning, at around 45 km from Reykjavik, we stopped at the village of Hveragerði. We picked up food for lunch and drinks for the day from the supermarket. The tactic was a good one as our body clocks were still in a state of flux. There are cafeteria-style restaurants at Geysir and also Gullfoss. There is a café and information center at the Thingvellir National Park would be almost empty for us in the afternoon as the coaches and bus tours roll through here in the morning.
The drive was very scenic as it passes the mountains and valleys, small chapels and farms. A favourite stop was Geysir as the geyser is amazing to watch. Every few minutes a bulb of water rises through the hole in the ground and with a deep boom, shooting hot water some 70 feet into the air. It was very fun. With so few locations in the world that you can stand next to these hydro-geological features they are quite rare. Gullfoss is a large waterfall and by the time we walked the trail it was raining hard. Thingvellir (Þingvellir) National Park is a fabulous place. The park lies in a rift valley that marks the crest of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates which is really cool. It is possible to go snorkelling between tectonic plates in Silfra Fissure with a tour. You have to book in advance and get prepared but it is a unique experience for sure. As the site of the historic assembly that became Iceland’s parliament and judicial system. One of the notable features here is the small chapel. As a UNESCO site, the park is one of the most visited tourist destinations in Iceland. It is a big site and did not seem busy or crowded when we were there.
It had been raining hard at Thingvellir getting back in Reykjavik the rain had stopped. We headed out for an early evening meal in downtown as it would be an early to get to the airport. Our itinerary meant dropping the car back 5:00am (ouch). It was all very quick as we were shuttled back to the airport.
My Thoughts:
The layover was a great experience. Iceland and the Icelandic people were fantastic. We did not care about the weather as we anticipated cold and rain and that is what we got. For us, everything was expensive compared to Canadian and USA prices. A small coffee was $7.50 a burger in a bar was around $28 to $30 in Reykjavik. Book restaurant reservations as space is limited to dine. We didn’t find the restaurants were flexible in accommodating diners if they did not have a reservation.
The food tour was amazing, as it was an immersion into Iceland in just a few short hours. Although often spoken of, we were not subjected to the sheep’s head or ram’s testicles, as these folk know their audience. We did try the fermented green shark, which has its own story. I will leave that for you to experience for yourselves.
The car rental for us was a good choice. With three of us together, the shuttle bus and the tour bus for the Golden Circle would have been over double what the car rental was. They do sell tickets for the shuttle bus online and they also sell tickets on the airplane just before landing. Iceland does not have trains.
The off-airport car rental office was a bonus for us as we did not have to wait in line. I never want to wait in line. Having the car, we just parked on the street and paid the parking as it was less than the hotel. Estimating, I believe I paid around $4–5 in parking fees each day. The hotel rate was approximately $20 per night. Street parking is free at night.
The Golden Circle Tour is well worth doing to sample what the country has a lot to offer. We spent around 6 hours on the route. The tour buses average around 10 hours. On our food tour, a couple had taken a bus tour around the Golden Circle the previous day and said it worked out at 11 hours for them. They probably were given better information from the tour guide than we had by looking on the internet. The trade is that we stopped at more places, did not have to wait for anyone and it took less time. Time is what we did not have a lot of.
Early morning in the airport, the terminal was packed. Planes are scheduled to land and take off throughout the night. Passengers arriving in the night have no access to accommodation so sleep in the airport. The same is true with passengers that have been touring in Iceland and are preparing to leave. They arrive late at night and sleep in the airport until their flight as there does not seems to be a suitable alternative. A lot of travellers were camped on the floor in the terminal and around the stairwells of the building as there is not adequate lounge space. Keep in mind that Reykjavik is some 50km from the airport with really nothing in between.
The processing of passengers through the airport just seemed inadequate in either direction. Don’t be surprised if you get your passport check complete only to have to do it again less than 12 feet later and, likely a third time before you get to the bus. Hopefully these are growing pains and the process flow of passengers will improve. Just be prepared for shambolic. At Keflavik Airport, the plane was parked on the apron. We were bused out to the plane for departure. The bus would be more of an issue in the winter especially if your coat is in your checked baggage.
Significantly in 2010 Iceland had 488, 000 visitors, and in 2024, 2.26 million visitors. The population of Iceland is below 400, 000 which indicates the ratio between the population and visitors. With so many visitors, how the Icelandic culture and language can be protected will be a test. Protecting the environment and ecosystems with the incursion of so many visitors each year is becoming a significant challenge.
For my family and I, it was a very enjoyable 48 hours in Iceland. The family agreed that hopefully we will be able to return for a bit longer next time and head away into explore the island.
The opinions shared are mine based on our experience. Your experience could be the same or different. Take time to do your own research to see if this is right for you. I was not paid or sponsored by anyone to visit this location or endorse any business or service. It was an independent choice and my visit was funded from my personal account.
